Still, a lot of shots on those rolls can be utterly crap, and that’s where lack of inspiration can come and eat you up. But then I’m reminded of Garry Winogrand, who shot over 5,850,000 photos with film in his lifespan. Then I realize I’m shooting too little!

So I then of course would try to search for that lighting strike, by trying to find photos of today’s street photographers. And it took me a while to find one that didn’t have digital HDR portraits of homeless people, but then I found this guy.

Vladimir aka “Camera Man”

Vladimir is a local street photographer based in San Francisco, California. Like any real street photographer, his photos definitely “reek with the smell of the streets.”

Okay, honestly I was looking for my next purchase for a Leica M2 or M3, and then found his unique Leica M2 stripped of paint, before seeing his work. (I’ll post his camera at the end.)  But I’m glad I found out about him either way.

Anyways, enough of me talking, and more of his work.

And now the beautiful “Mickie and Minnie” Leica M2′s. Chemically removed the paint to expose the raw brass plates. (I’m even more obsessed now to own an M2 because of this.) (Photos via Citysnaps.Net)

to see more of his work, click HERE

Enjoy!

Problem, back then, was how in the world do I get that shot with out  getting punched, spat, or yelled at?

First thing to remember is that homeless folks are people too! Take and compose your shot whichever way you usually do when shooting on the street. Whether it be a candid shot from afar, quick snap up close and walk away, or a portrait shot with permission. If the same method works for you when shooting “everyday people” on the street, then you shouldn’t put up this separate wall of hesitation when it comes to the homeless.

BUT also remember to use common sense. There are some who are mentally distraught, and things could get physical whether or not you give off the right or wrong vibe. That’s just the common rule for anyone. (If you don’t have street smarts, don’t shoot street.)

Candids are typically, usually easy.

This was shot from a far, about 5 meters away with a 90mm lens.

This one was taken with a 40mm lens up closer. snapped while walking.

But what about head on shots? How do I do that?

Well, just like any other portrait you would usually do, get their consent! Just simply going up to them, and asking them for a quick picture, can surprisingly go a long way. And if they ask why, please.. don’t lie, just be honest! If they say no, then respectfully give an Okay and Thank you and carry on with your day.

Shot these with my rangefinder. I was driving down some road, and saw this man trucking around 2 carts full of his art work. Pulled over and got out of my car and approached him. He saw that I had a camera and waved his hands saying “No photos, I don’t do photos.”  I said okay that’s fine, but went ahead and started a short minute convo about his art work. Gave him a few dollars I could spare, not expecting for anything in return, but just to help the guy out. As I was about to head back to my car, He said I could take some shots. Said Thanks and shook his hand.

His name is Robin, the artist.

Hope this helps anyone who may have been wanting to get those character shots but weren’t sure of how to get into the action

“If your photos aren’t good enough, it just means you’re not close enough.” – Robert Capa

Shots from today.

For those not familiar with these particular types of polaroid cameras, the image is processed in a special type of film referred to as peel apart film. You would physically pull the film slide of the frame you had just exposed, and wait a certain suggested amount of seconds before peeling the negative side to reveal a positive image.( see image below) Not the typical auto snap shot film that mechanically shoots out your picture and you shake it like Andre 3000. Now since Polaroid doesn’t make these peel apart films anymore, you can still rely on good old Fuji. I’m shot these images with Fujifilm FP-3000b. Which is now the only black and white peel apart they make now a days. (BRING BACK the 100b and 500b!!!)

I bought this camera because; 1) It’s a Carl Zeiss Rangerfinder and I’m a hipster, and 2) I really wanted to shoot peel apart film. The format results are great from this camera, almost like having a mini portable 4×5 large format camera ( I know a lot will disagree). If you’re ever interested in trying these out, don’t hesitate! They are fairly affordable, unless you find a 185, 190, 195, or any of the manual version with the Mamiya lenses. Not sure how this would work on the streets considering they are obnoxiously flashy and big, but then you should probably stick to your 35mm rangefinder or p&s. Hope you enjoyed!

First, I carry everything in an Incase x Ari Marcopoulos Camera Sling. It fits a crap load.

From right to left.

- Marc Jacobs Wallet. (don’t ever rob me. chances are I have nothing in there.)

- iPhone 4 with charger and headphones.

- cheap watch that is beat to heck.

- leather notebook.

- Micro fiber from my Ray Bans. ( I use for lenses.)

- Leica Mini II 35mm (everyone needs a good point and shoot film cam.)

- Yashica GTN Rangefinder ( I shoot this alot. Amazing lens. Fast 45mm F/1.7)

- Meika Flash ( flash for the rangefinder when I need it.)

- Color and B&W 35mm film . (Fuji Pro400H and Kodak Portra 400 for color, Ilford Hp5+ for B&W.)

- Lumix EVF-1 case

-Lumix GF1 with EVF1, Aashi metal grip, and 20mm (40mm) f/1.7 pancake lens. ( If I’m out of film, I’ll shoot this, but I usually use this for video.

- Lumix 14mm (28mm) 2.5 wide pancake lens.

- Lumix GF1 charger.

- Fuji 210 with extra instax film.

Yea, that’s pretty much what I bring with me to go shoot. Sometimes I leave a camera home or swap it out for another. Hope you Enjoyed!

I shoot people on the streets. Check in time to time for new pictures.